you may get wet

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Location: Los Angeles, California, United States

Old enough to know better. Young enough to do it anyways.

Wednesday, May 30, 2007


Tomorrow I start a new job in L.A. with a schedule eerily close to 9 to 5. So tonight I went surfing. I just got a new O'Neill Mutant 3/2 wetsuit, and wanted to test it out. An hour and a half in the waters of Northern L.A. and not a goose bump to be found.

The surf was not vintage, but it was powerful and peeling with a handful of windy bumps. I surfed just north of L.A.'s most well known spot. The line up was somewhat crowded when I jumped in at 7:15 pm, but thinned out by 8 pm, leaving an hour window of vacant wave riding.

As the sun dipped westward, the full moon rose in the east. The end of the session was ushered out by the moon's bright glow, squinting to see the sets contrasted against the silver glow.

The picture below is of the new fraternal twins. They're separated by about a couple of months. The oldest is the Hotline 4/3 on the right, which a friend gave me this past weekend (thanks Nate). The youngest is the new Mutant on the left - after the nearly mandatory 5/3 of Oregon, the 3/2 feels like being nude. Oh yeah, the pic above is a shot I took from my car when I was driving home from surfing Santa Monica. I think it might be on the wall of a surf shop, not sure.

The Smiths, "This Night Has Opened My Eyes"

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Off the Wagon

Between battling a bad back and an extended flat spell, I was out of the drink for nearly a month. Well, this past week I was finally able to fall off the wagon. In a good way. With my back at about half-mast, I headed out to a nice stretch of beach just north of the city. My ol' pal Shitbird brought an extra log for me and his gal pal, Charlotte Sometimes. Gliding on a log seemed the best way to test my sore back and, given the sea was wearing knee-highs, it was the best way to enjoy the surf.

It turned into a very grin-worthy day. Easily paddling into little rollers and trimming all the way to the inside. It was nice to be reminded of surfing's essence: pure joy for joy's sake. After a bit my back was aching like the Elephant Man, so I paddled in and took some photos of the surfing couple. I think Mrs. Sometimes has a thing or two to teach Senor Shitbird about style and grace. What can you expect he's old.

Yesterday, Shitbird and I were on it again. This time we drove farther north. The wind was on it and so were the masses. The crowd was pretty spread out, though, so we suited up and paddled out. I took out my fish stick, as my back was closer to Homo Sapien than Homo Wreckus. The foamy, frothy conditions were far from ideal, but there were fun sections that bumped and ledged for quick little launches and bunny hops.

After a couple hours my back sent signals shooting up my spine to let me know it was time to leave. Obligingly, I caught one more bumpy ride that blew up around shoulder high.

Another day in the water. Another day to the good.

Cop + Brownie = Living Dead
(Law enforcement at its best...not to mention tax dollars)

Friday, May 11, 2007


My neck, my back...I think you know the rest. After a back pain-free life, I now understand what all the fuss is about. I've basically been bedridden for the last week after injuring my back in a soccer match.

While convalescing, I found this video by The Tough Alliance...they're from Sweden...of course they are. The songs called Silly Crimes. It's my first glimpse of the sea in quite some time.