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Location: Los Angeles, California, United States

Old enough to know better. Young enough to do it anyways.

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Off the Wagon

Between battling a bad back and an extended flat spell, I was out of the drink for nearly a month. Well, this past week I was finally able to fall off the wagon. In a good way. With my back at about half-mast, I headed out to a nice stretch of beach just north of the city. My ol' pal Shitbird brought an extra log for me and his gal pal, Charlotte Sometimes. Gliding on a log seemed the best way to test my sore back and, given the sea was wearing knee-highs, it was the best way to enjoy the surf.

It turned into a very grin-worthy day. Easily paddling into little rollers and trimming all the way to the inside. It was nice to be reminded of surfing's essence: pure joy for joy's sake. After a bit my back was aching like the Elephant Man, so I paddled in and took some photos of the surfing couple. I think Mrs. Sometimes has a thing or two to teach Senor Shitbird about style and grace. What can you expect he's old.

Yesterday, Shitbird and I were on it again. This time we drove farther north. The wind was on it and so were the masses. The crowd was pretty spread out, though, so we suited up and paddled out. I took out my fish stick, as my back was closer to Homo Sapien than Homo Wreckus. The foamy, frothy conditions were far from ideal, but there were fun sections that bumped and ledged for quick little launches and bunny hops.

After a couple hours my back sent signals shooting up my spine to let me know it was time to leave. Obligingly, I caught one more bumpy ride that blew up around shoulder high.

Another day in the water. Another day to the good.

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Blogger May said...

Dude, your blog is so long. Naskar looks sexy! Just kidding! Say hi to those guys for me. Good luck with the new gig. See you soon. Ps. put more pics up will you?

1:50 PM  
Blogger Nash said...

What's the new gig? I have gotten very little surf recently except for a rockin day on the mysto rt hand point (working for once) and a ok one at shorebreak.

2:48 PM  
Blogger Foul Pete said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

2:33 PM  
Blogger Foul Pete said...


I've been suffering a bad back also. Acupuncture has helped a tonne. So has not skateboarding. I tried longboarding also but I think shortboarding is better as more of your body is supported by the water when paddling...

Ibuprofen and Tiger balm if you are really in pain...

2:35 PM  
Blogger G said...

I'll tell Nasker he's got some not so secret admirers. And thanks for the "good luck" on the gig.

Nashty, the "gig" in question is actually two different job possibilities, and I'm trying to decide between the two. I'll let you know when I figure it out.

FW, I've been seriously considering getting prodded by the needles. I've heard some good results. Happy to say I'm off the longboard and back on the fish...with most my dignity intact. How did you hurt your back?

9:31 AM  

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