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Location: Los Angeles, California, United States

Old enough to know better. Young enough to do it anyways.

Friday, April 27, 2007

At the End of my Leash

The above picture is what my board looked like before I entered the water. The below picture is what it looked like a half-hour later. I pulled up to the EP parking lot in the mid-morning sun. The swell size was still holding and the wind hadn't blown it out yet. The first thing I heard as I stepped out of the car: "Oh my god, that was the longest barrel of my life!" A still-wet bro was standing pie-eyed in the parking lot explaining his good fortune.

Stoked to find some of my own I hurried down to the beach. I should've know something was amiss. I was wearing my bulky 5-3 hooded suit, and my leash was tied in a knot. Pulling the hood down off my head and untangling my leash, I leaped in. The arms were noodlely after nearly two weeks in dry dock. The 5-3 wasn't helping any. That's not totally true. I had to duck at least 15 waves to make it out. So I did have it to thank for my warm core temperature.

The first wave I went for spooled out in front of me at about head height. As I swung into position, I saw the whole thing wall up in a pre-close-out grimmace. I pulled off it; unfortunately, my board didn't follow suit. It got yanked over the falls, and the leash snapped like a twig. Next thing I know I'm doing the swim of shame, as my board bounces and bobs like a little yellow submarine all the way in.

Like the title of this post suggests, I'm at the end of my leash with my surfing right now. I'm not committed enough to improve, and I seem to go out just enough to get frustrated. I've got a New Mid-Year's Resolution: Surf at least three days a week. Let's see how I do.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

Peace and Democracy - the Future of Iraq
It is certain that the reasons that had originated the offensive American in Iraq had had as base a prepresumption that did not arrive to be confirmed, and that unhappyly it gave origin to the current situation that the social communication in presents them daily. To the long one of these years it had an evolution in the organization of the country, having had elections for the formation of a new government, giving origin to a democratic system. In simultaneous, formation was given to the forces of security of Iraq in order to be better prepared to make face to the daily attempted against ones of that the Iraqian society is white. It weighs all even so the efforts efectuados for the international forces, nominated the military of U.S.A., the situation is far to be controlled, living the population days of permanent horror, where it is extremely difficult to recommence to reorganize a country total destroyed. In this scene, one becomes impensável to make with that the military of U.S.A. abandon short-term Iraq, as they intend the democrats, efectuando a pressure on the President of U.S.A., so that such decision can be taken. Although the initiative of U.S.A. when provoking has disapproved this war, because in a mild share it could have other solutions, finds that he would be terrivel for the iraqis if was abandoned at this moment to its luck. Horrivel would be a carnificína, with unimaginable ratios! To deliver to the proper iraqis itself, without having minimum condicções of security, would be one total irresponsibility, one to wash of hands in a process that still is very far of its term. The thousands of people who had been sacrificed in this war, civís and military, do not deserve that its lives have been cut with a scythe em.vão. From there my discord in approving an exit precocious of the military forces of U.S.A., that independently of the critical ones of that they are white, are those that in the land, jointly with other forces in lesser number, has saved thousand of lives of the Iraqian society with its actuação, making with that the hope of renascer a new democratic Iraq is not only one utopia. A.J.Faria

It would very like its opinion in the Blogue Word Between Words. Greetings,

3:40 AM  
Blogger Nash said...

First I would like to reiterate the comments of the guy who posted above me. Second, bummer G. Don't get discouraged get a partner in crime. You should be getting copious amounts of waves right now. Locate the spirit of adventure and find some!

8:57 AM  
Blogger G said...

"Locate the spirit of adventure and find some".... Is this a thinly veiled reference to the G-Spot? If so I thought we settled that one a few months back.

9:47 AM  
Blogger Chum said...

Nash is just being smug because we scored on a little hikey adventure yesterday. Dude, hang in there and clean that toothpaste off your stick!

1:50 PM  
Blogger Nash said...

Ahhh G, wasn't being smug or even attempting to toss shite. Its hard to get a heavy stoke when your out there pushing alone. Finding stoke in solo surfing or surfing with someone better than you is always a great motivator to be in the water. We did score though big time. I surfed alone at teh mysto for a solid 45 minutes after Chumly, your bro and marko all took the walk of shame. Oh wait, I guess I took the walk of shame seeing as mine laste 40 minutes longer than theirs!

8:54 AM  
Blogger G said...

Ahhh Nash, I'd accuse you of tossing somethang, but never shite. It's definitely harder to find the stoke solo, but I have a 5'9" slice of heaven in the works that should stoke me something fierce.

Congrats on the mysto magic. Turned green like an Oregon duck just hearing about it.

9:02 AM  

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