To Live and Surf in L.A.
Almost two weeks ago I crammed all my possessions into the back of my car and drove out of Portland on I-5 South. The only reason all my possessions fit in the back of my car is that my girlfriend made me throw half of them overboard before moving in with her in L.A.
Leaving Portland meant leaving family, friends and the cold water I'd come to crave. But moving to L.A. meant warm water and exploring numerous new breaks (even if the breaks happen to be loaded with half of Los Angeles's loads).
After hearing about an epic session up north from Chummers and the crew, I was eager to test the SoCal waters. The sites were predicting a swell size of John Holmes proportions - 1 to 2 feet - which is great if you're in porn, but sucky if you're trying to surf.
Shitbird and myself eyeballed a spot up north for nearly an hour, willing it to get bigger. It almost worked too. A chest high set popped up, and that's all we needed. We suited up and paddled out. The water was surprisingly chilly, but then again my ratty 4-3 had more holes than USC's defense against the Ducks. If I could've added my decent rides together I would of had one good 5' wave in the span of 3 hours.
So while big winter surf pounds the PNW, I'm left with knee-high-to-a-grasshopper sets, which is fine by me for the time being. The following tables show the stark difference between the noth and south ends of the left coast.
NORTH:
SOUTH:
Fortunately though, somehow by some weird algorithm a 2.5’ swell in L.A. actually equates to a 2.5’ wave. Whereas in Oregon, a 13’ swell could easily be knocked down to just over chest high. I’ll put my theory to the test tomorrow when I head to a spot just below the flight path of LAX.
In the meantime and in between time, my new home comes equipped with a large flat screen TV, and endless stoke-supplying Fuel TV.
Leaving Portland meant leaving family, friends and the cold water I'd come to crave. But moving to L.A. meant warm water and exploring numerous new breaks (even if the breaks happen to be loaded with half of Los Angeles's loads).
After hearing about an epic session up north from Chummers and the crew, I was eager to test the SoCal waters. The sites were predicting a swell size of John Holmes proportions - 1 to 2 feet - which is great if you're in porn, but sucky if you're trying to surf.
Shitbird and myself eyeballed a spot up north for nearly an hour, willing it to get bigger. It almost worked too. A chest high set popped up, and that's all we needed. We suited up and paddled out. The water was surprisingly chilly, but then again my ratty 4-3 had more holes than USC's defense against the Ducks. If I could've added my decent rides together I would of had one good 5' wave in the span of 3 hours.
So while big winter surf pounds the PNW, I'm left with knee-high-to-a-grasshopper sets, which is fine by me for the time being. The following tables show the stark difference between the noth and south ends of the left coast.
NORTH:
SOUTH:
Fortunately though, somehow by some weird algorithm a 2.5’ swell in L.A. actually equates to a 2.5’ wave. Whereas in Oregon, a 13’ swell could easily be knocked down to just over chest high. I’ll put my theory to the test tomorrow when I head to a spot just below the flight path of LAX.
In the meantime and in between time, my new home comes equipped with a large flat screen TV, and endless stoke-supplying Fuel TV.
posted by G | 2:48 PM
7 Comments:
Sounds like the puss comes in more than one variety in LA: girlfriends and swell size. Hope you score some epicness at least a few times before employment hits. I say just subscribe to the Life 'O Nasker. Then you'll be surfing any day of the week!
Gronamo, sorry to hear the swell isn't working. Keep your head up, soon enough you will be in your yellow farmer john tearing it up.
You'll be scoring more than sunshine and regular booty soon.
Thanks for the Link G!
Dean
When you get it dialed in, you'll be getting way more waves than us...
Hope you jumped on some of this swell, welcome to the hood!
Swell finally picking up. Made a couple treks out that are starting to replenish the ol' stoke.
Thanks for the welcome Patchy.
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