you may get wet

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Location: Los Angeles, California, United States

Old enough to know better. Young enough to do it anyways.

Monday, July 23, 2007

Board Fund

With all my excitement of getting a new board I almost forgot the original source of inspiration. Gotta give a big thanks to my lady, McVeigh for starting the board fund. Instead of buying birthday gifts for the people in our little surf crew, we all chip in for a new board. I was the inaugural recipient of the board fund, and I'm stoked beyond belief to have gotten my new board. So thanks to everyone who chipped in, and if anyone else wants to join the fund just drop a check in the mail to me...just joking. But, if you surly NWers want in on the deal, we could just start implementing a standard $25 or more donation to each others board fund come b-day time.

From the board fund to the board shaper to the glassers, the whole process was flawless. I ordered my 5'9" diamond tail quad from Erik Olson with the idea of being able to get into waves early, but also avoid the stubbed toe effect of my flat-as-a-pancake KG. So I worked with Erik to pull in the nose for a bit more slashability (I can dream can't I) and gave it a bit more entry rocker to keep from face planting on the steeper beach breakers.

The result is even better than I could have imagined. Last week I got four sessions in - not all of them in remarkable conditions, but each one a great testament to the board's ability. In some very lumpy surf it held speed through the flats and connected the sections like dots. In some glassy, shoulder high dawn patrollers it dug its rail in deep and help all the way to the sand. The only set back was a user error when I came popping up after crashing - the board was right above me and I planted my head directly into it, giving the board it's first blemish. Nothing major, just a little acne scar.

I also wanted to mention a couple San Diego spots that I hit, while Erik led me on a phone tour of his fair city. He was stuck in traffic on his way back from Moonlight, so he suggested I check outDG Wills - an amazing new and used bookstore. I did, and was greeted to some amazing vintage air brushed boards hanging from the rafters. I ended up getting Jon Fante's "Dreams from Bunker Hill" and a Norton Anthology of Poetry (so I can read Prufrock when ever I need to). I don't get to read nearly as much as I used to, but still like to support the dying art.

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this board. It's the first custom board I've ever gotten, and I couldn't imagine a better process. What other sport do you collaborate with the people handcrafting your gear? None that I've played. I can tell you that. Already day dreaming of my next stick....

Young Gunning

Monday, July 16, 2007

Ladies and gentlemen...

.... Boys and girls, let me proudly introduce you to...drum roll please...THE SHRUB:

A big round of applause goes out to Erik Hakon Olson and the Moonlight crew. Thank you. To be continued....

Do you recognize this pier? Micky Dora

Monday, July 02, 2007

One California Day

A couple rare occurrences have transpired this last week. The first being a pulse of swell blessing LA county. The second is my ability to wake up early enough to take advantage of it.

Tuesday was beach day for my work crew at El Porto. Managed to snag a few bumpy rights on a barrowed Channel Island potato chip. The real highlight was wearing trunks - albeit shortie Quiksilvers to show off some pale man flesh.

Wednesday was 4th of July, and I celebrated with a dunk at Santa Monica. Thought everyone would be prepping for fireworks, bbq's and bevies. Evidently, they all had the same idea I did. Managed to pick off quite a few in the crowed closeouts (hence, the photo above).

Thursday was a repeat performance at Santa Monica. Met a bird of the feather named Shitbird. Caught a few. Missed a few. Got slammed into the sand by all. Low tide shore break made for more quick closeouts and beachy britches. Great to surf with mi amigo, though.

Now trying to decide if I've got enough for tomorrow A.M....?

Shout out to the boys in Nica. Here's what you're missing in Cali - One California Day

Beach Blanket Bingo

Perfect day to spread out the blanket,
kick back and relax on the beaches of L.A.

Just had a two hour window to throw on the wet suit
and hit the Pacific as it was heating up to pool temps.

Sweating in the 3/2, and seeing multitudes
of baggy-wearing, board-toting bro-himes.

Little peaks popped like champagne
as I raced to stay in front of the bubbly.

Too many fun fish slides to count,
But the best one openned like an emerald envelope for nearly a 5-count.

Note to self: Surfing is fun. Must surf more.

Another State of Mind Joel Tudor