One California Day
A couple rare occurrences have transpired this last week. The first being a pulse of swell blessing LA county. The second is my ability to wake up early enough to take advantage of it.
Tuesday was beach day for my work crew at El Porto. Managed to snag a few bumpy rights on a barrowed Channel Island potato chip. The real highlight was wearing trunks - albeit shortie Quiksilvers to show off some pale man flesh.
Wednesday was 4th of July, and I celebrated with a dunk at Santa Monica. Thought everyone would be prepping for fireworks, bbq's and bevies. Evidently, they all had the same idea I did. Managed to pick off quite a few in the crowed closeouts (hence, the photo above).
Thursday was a repeat performance at Santa Monica. Met a bird of the feather named Shitbird. Caught a few. Missed a few. Got slammed into the sand by all. Low tide shore break made for more quick closeouts and beachy britches. Great to surf with mi amigo, though.
Now trying to decide if I've got enough for tomorrow A.M....?
Shout out to the boys in Nica. Here's what you're missing in Cali - One California Day
posted by G | 10:43 PM
2 Comments:
sounds better than the bingo day looked. also sounds like you're finally developing a surf schedule that an oregon valley boy could be envious of. go. do. it. shitbird in shorebreak closers???
I saw Shitbird take one closeout, board flew up into the air and everything, didn't see him even paddle for another one. To his credit, he went further north for a second sesh, as I made my way into work.
Going tomorrow. Not much swell, but a little sumthang. Picking up my new board Saturday. Will post pix.
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