you may get wet

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Location: Los Angeles, California, United States

Old enough to know better. Young enough to do it anyways.

Wednesday, May 30, 2007


Tomorrow I start a new job in L.A. with a schedule eerily close to 9 to 5. So tonight I went surfing. I just got a new O'Neill Mutant 3/2 wetsuit, and wanted to test it out. An hour and a half in the waters of Northern L.A. and not a goose bump to be found.

The surf was not vintage, but it was powerful and peeling with a handful of windy bumps. I surfed just north of L.A.'s most well known spot. The line up was somewhat crowded when I jumped in at 7:15 pm, but thinned out by 8 pm, leaving an hour window of vacant wave riding.

As the sun dipped westward, the full moon rose in the east. The end of the session was ushered out by the moon's bright glow, squinting to see the sets contrasted against the silver glow.

The picture below is of the new fraternal twins. They're separated by about a couple of months. The oldest is the Hotline 4/3 on the right, which a friend gave me this past weekend (thanks Nate). The youngest is the new Mutant on the left - after the nearly mandatory 5/3 of Oregon, the 3/2 feels like being nude. Oh yeah, the pic above is a shot I took from my car when I was driving home from surfing Santa Monica. I think it might be on the wall of a surf shop, not sure.

The Smiths, "This Night Has Opened My Eyes"


Blogger Nash said...

Whose the new employer? Is it the one that your car runs on?

8:58 AM  
Blogger Slim said...

I wish I needed a 3/2. Dreamin' of warmer waters....

Question: As one hardened Oregon surfer to another, what kind of pussy needs a hood if the water's warm enough for a 3/2? Cali boys must be soft.

10:08 AM  
Blogger Nash said...

Hey are those wetsuits holding hands?

11:18 AM  
Blogger G said...

What goes in your car is now what goes in my brain all day. Just started today at Fuel TV's The Daily Habit. It was your basic baptism by fire, which isn't so bad when you consider your working on surf, skate, snow, bmx and fmx.

Not sure exactly what kind of pussy, but I think I might find out this coming winter. The 3/2 is actually really warm, so I could see a day where you can handle sittiing on the board, but need to throw the hood on for multiple ducks.

All my wetsuits are friends. They hold hands, spoon and 69 on occasion

11:36 PM  
Blogger Nash said...

Hey congrats homey! Great to hear about the job. Can't wait to come down and have you introduce me to my future wife. Note to future wife, have a really tight @ss and a love of adventure. Come aboard Nash is waiting for ya.

9:04 AM  
Blogger Chum said...

The wetsuits are alright. The club chairs are better though. I feel like I'm in the lounge of Scarface's mansion! "Say hello to my little friend!"

Congrats on the new gig!

6:45 AM  
Blogger G said...

Don't get too attached to those chairs, my mom has already called dibs on 'em. If you had 'em you might not even need to go to Nica - just have a seat and you're there.

Mrs. Nashty is definitely down here awaiting your presence. I think s/he is in WeHo (aka Boys Town) putting the finishing touches on her tuck.

10:16 AM  

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