you may get wet

My Photo
Location: Los Angeles, California, United States

Old enough to know better. Young enough to do it anyways.

Sunday, August 26, 2007


The last entery in my Oregon series. Seems like a lifetime ago already. Had one great day out at PC with the whole crew. Punchy peaks popping up all along the beach. The sun blazing in the background, and cold beers waiting at the pub. Only problem - my arms felt like crusty strands of rope after about an hour. Not used to lugging the 5/3 around and ducking set after set to get back out. Well, if it was easier they'd call it California.

Speaking of which, Markilupo and I just rallied out for a descent morning sesh. We drove north to a semi-secret spot, and hiked down to find perfectly groomed waves walling up every fifteen minutes or so. My first was my best - a nipple high peeler that pushed me over the rocks that were trying to peek up on the inside. Long lulls left time to talk some shit and enjoy a somewhat remote break. Thanks Marky!

Friday, August 17, 2007


Looks like the forecasts have dropped significantly. Well, check this vid for ways to have fun when it's small.

Thursday, August 16, 2007


"Tuesday the 21st could prove to be an interesting
surf day along the California coast. The 72h+ models
place a hefty storm in the Gulf of Alaska on a beeline
for the Oregon coast. Simulations say this would slam
the Oregon and Washington coasts with at least 20-foot
surf, which is hard to believe given that this is
August and not January. Still, models seem convinced
on this unseasonable scenario this morning. This could
mean SoCal could see some 290- 300-degree energy with
11-13 second periods making for highly consistent,
chest to head high waves around west facing breaks.
This whole scenario seems surreal though given the
time of year and all, and basing this on 72h+ models,
we'll definitely need a few more days to see how this
all plays out."

Just read this yesterday as I was starting to get excited for a trip back up to the Pacific NW. Now I'm a little frightened, but in a good way. Finally get a chance to truly test my new stick.

In preparation, logged some time this morning. Knee to waist meant it wasn't a total waste, but very humble all the same. Looking forward to friends, family and frigid waves. See ya all soon.

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Flat As A...

...Pancake on a rabbits head...that's how flat it's been.

Keep on Drivin'