you may get wet

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Location: Los Angeles, California, United States

Old enough to know better. Young enough to do it anyways.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

'Bu Ya

Woke up at the crack this past Saturday, and met up with Ks at one of the more popular breaks in L.A. Made the walk in just as the first spark of light hit the sky. We were the first two in the water...after a rocky entrance that picked off a bit of my fin...and were rewarded with some scrumptious head-high righties. The best of which bombed me 100 yards from the outside all the way to the shallows. Ks got my ears perked when he said my back shoulder/elbow was getting tubed. Next wave I threw on the E brake, but was rolled up and over onto my ass...can't say I didn't try.

Soon after, the L.A. lemmings converged and it was time to go. But, it was good times and a hint at what's to come this winter.

Surfing just got a whole lot cooler:


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